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1 Jacquard, Joseph-Marie
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. 7 July 1752 Lyons, Franced. 7 August 1834 Oullines, France[br]French developer of the apparatus named after him and used for selecting complicated patterns in weaving.[br]Jacquard was apprenticed at the age of 12 to bookbinding, and later to type-founding and cutlery. His parents, who had some connection with weaving, left him a small property upon their death. He made some experiments with pattern weaving, but lost all his inheritance; after marrying, he returned to type-founding and cutlery. In 1790 he formed the idea for his machine, but it was forgotten amidst the excitement of the French Revolution, in which he fought for the Revolutionists at the defence of Lyons. The machine he completed in 1801 combined earlier inventions and was for weaving net. He was sent to Paris to demonstrate it at the National Exposition and received a bronze medal. In 1804 Napoleon granted him a patent, a pension of 1,500 francs and a premium on each machine sold. This enabled him to study and work at the Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers to perfect his mechanism for pattern weaving. A method of selecting any combination of leashes at each shoot of the weft had to be developed, and Jacquard's mechanism was the outcome of various previous inventions. By taking the cards invented by Falcon in 1728 that were punched with holes like the paper of Bouchon in 1725, to select the needles for each pick, and by placing the apparatus above the loom where Vaucanson had put his mechanism, Jacquard combined the best features of earlier inventions. He was not entirely successful because his invention failed in the way it pressed the card against the needles; later modifications by Breton in 1815 and Skola in 1819 were needed before it functioned reliably. However, the advantage of Jacquard's machine was that each pick could be selected much more quickly than on the earlier draw looms, which meant that John Kay's flying shuttle could be introduced on fine pattern looms because the weaver no longer had to wait for the drawboy to sort out the leashes for the next pick. Robert Kay's drop box could also be used with different coloured wefts. The drawboy could be dispensed with because the foot-pedal operating the Jacquard mechanism could be worked by the weaver. Patterns could be changed quickly by replacing one set of cards with another, but the scope of the pattern was more limited than with the draw loom. Some machines that were brought into use aroused bitter hostility. Jacquard suffered physical violence, barely escaping with his life, and his machines were burnt by weavers at Lyons. However, by 1812 his mechanism began to be generally accepted and had been applied to 11,000 draw-looms in France. In 1819 Jacquard received a gold medal and a Cross of Honour for his invention. His machines reached England c.1816 and still remain the basic way of weaving complicated patterns.[br]Principal Honours and DistinctionsFrench Cross of Honour 1819. National Exposition Bronze Medal 1801.Further ReadingA.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London.C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History of Technology, Vol. IV, Oxford: Clarendon Press.R.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester (covers the introduction of pattern weaving and the power loom).RLH -
2 Verdol Jacquard
A fine-pitch machine invented by M. Verdol in 1884. It has 16 hooks per row and two rows of 8 holes each on the card correspond with one row of 16 hooks. The rows of holes in the card are staggered to make maximum use of the space. The machines are made in multiples of 112, common sizes being 448, 896, 1344 and 1792 hooks. Instead of pattern cards, an endless band of perforated paper is used to actuate the needles and pattern selecting mechanism. About 15 yards of paper will equal about 1,000 cards, as the Verdol machine presents 80 needles to the square inch as compared with 14 needles for the ordinary British pitch machine. -
3 жаккардовый механизм
Русско-английский текстильный словарь > жаккардовый механизм
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4 Skola
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c. 1819 France[br]French improver of the Jacquard mechanism for pattern weaving.[br]Jacquard hand looms surviving from the 1830s show a mechanism similar to those still used in the 1990s, with all the operations being carried out by the weaver: the flying shuttle, invented by John Kay, is driven across with the right hand, while the left hand rests on the sley and beats in the weft and also selects the appropriate shuttle from Robert Kay's drop box. The right foot presses down on a pedal which operates the Jacquard mechanism. The single downwards movement of the foot has to be translated into two different motions to operate the Jacquard. First, the correct card has to be moved horizontally against the needles to select the desired pattern, then the appropriate needles have to be lifted vertically. Jacquard's invention failed in the way it pressed the card against the needles, but Skola was able to improve this in 1819, probably with the addition of a part called the "swan neck". It was Skola's Jacquard machine which truly rendered the process of weaving more economical and productive because the weaver now could operate the Jacquard mechanism with no help, so dispensing with the drawboy. The speed of selecting the pattern with this mechanism also meant that the weaver could use the flying shuttle, with an additional increment in weaving speeds.[br]Further ReadingR.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester (includes a description of the development of the Jacquard mechanism).A.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London (for illustrations of the perfected mechanism).RLH -
5 жаккардовый механизм
Универсальный русско-английский словарь > жаккардовый механизм
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6 Deverill, Hooton
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c.1835 England[br]English patentee of the first successful adaptation of the Jacquard machine for patterned lacemaking.[br]After John Levers had brought out his lacemaking machine in 1813, other lacemakers proceeded to elaborate their machinery so as to imitate the more complicated forms of handwork. One of these was Samuel Draper of Nottingham, who took out one patent in 1835 for the use of a Jacquard mechanism on a lace making machine, followed by another in 1837. However, material made on his machine cost more than the handmade article, so the experiment was abandoned after three years. Then, in Nottingham in 1841, Hooton Deverill patented the first truly successful application of the Jacquard to lacemaking. The Jacquard needles caused the warp threads to be pushed sideways to form the holes in the lace while the bobbins were moved around them to bind them together. This made it possible to reproduce most of the traditional patterns of handmade lace in both narrow and wide pieces. Lace made on these machines became cheap enough for most people to be able to hang it in their windows as curtains, or to use it for trimming clothing. However, it raised in a most serious form the problem of patent rights between the two patentees, Deverill and Draper, threatening much litigation. Deverill's patent was bought by Richard Birkin, who with his partner Biddle relinquished the patent rights. The lacemaking trade on these machines was thus thrown open to the public and a new development of the trade took place. Levers lace is still made in the way described here.[br]Bibliography1841, British patent no. 8,955 (adaptation of Jacquard machine for patterned lacemaking).Further ReadingW.Felkin, 1867, History of Machine-Wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufacture (provides an account of Deverill's patent).C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History of'Technology, Vol. V, Oxford: Clarendon Press (a modern account).T.K.Derry and T.I.Williams, 1960, A Short History of Technology from the EarliestTimes to AD 1900, Oxford.RLH -
7 Townsend, Matthew
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. Leicester (?), Englandd. after 1867 USA[br]English inventor of the latch needle for making seamless hose, and developer of ribbed knitting on circular machines.[br]Townsend, who described himself in his first patent as a framework knitter and afterwards as a hosier of Leicester, took out a patent in 1847 for the application of a "machine like that of a point net frame to an ordinary stocking-frame". He described needles and hooks of a peculiar shape which were able to take the work off the knitting machine, reverse the loops and return them again so that ribbed knitting could be made on circular machines. These became popular for knitting stockings which, although not fully fashioned, had sufficient strength to fit the leg. In 1854 he took out a patent for making round hose with heels and toes fashioned on other machines. In yet another patent, in 1856, he described a method of raising looped pile on knitted fabrics for making "terry" towelling fabrics. He could use different coloured yarns in the fabric that were controlled by a Jacquard mechanism. It was in the same year, 1856, in a further patent that he described his tumbler or latch needles as well as the making of figured patterns in knitting on both sides of the fabric with a Jacquard mechanism. The latch needles were self-acting, being made to move up and down or backwards and forwards by the action of cams set in the cylindrical body of the machine. Normally the needle worked in a vertical or inclined position with the previous loop on the shank below the latch. Weft yarn was placed in the hook of the needle. The needle was drawn down between fixed plates which formed a new loop with the weft. At the same time, the original loop already on the shank of the needle moved along the shank and closed the latch so that it could pass over the newly formed loop in the needle hook and fall over the end of the needle incorporating the new loop on its way to make the next row of stitches. The latch needle obviated the need for loop wheels and pressers and thus simplified the knitting mechanism. Townsend's invention was the forerunner of an entirely new generation of knitting machines, but it was many years before its full potential was realized, the bearded needle of William Lee being preferred because the hinge of the latch could not be made as fine as the bearded needle.Townsend was in the first rank of skilful manufacturers of fancy Leicester hosiery and had a good practical knowledge of the machinery used in his trade. Having patented his needles, he seems not to have succeeded in getting them into very profitable or extensive use, possibly because he fixed the royalty too high. His invention proved to be most useful and profitable in the hands of others, for it gave great impetus to the trade in seamless hose. For various reasons he discontinued his business in Leicester. He emigrated to the USA, where, after some initial setbacks, he began to reap the rewards of his skill.[br]Bibliography1847, British patent no. 11,899 (knitting machine). 1854, British patent no. 1,523 (seamless hose).1856, British patent no. 1,157 ("terry" towelling fabrics).1856, British patent no. 1,858 (latch needles and double-sided patterns on fabrics).Further ReadingF.A.Wells, 1935, The British Hosiery and Knitwear Industry, London (mentions Townsend briefly).W.Felkin, 1967, History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures, reprint, Newton Abbot (orig. pub. 1867) (a better account of Townsend).RLH -
8 Jacquardeinrichtung
f < textil> ■ jacquard attachment; jacquard mechanism; jacquard selection device -
9 приспособление для изготовления жаккардового ажурного полотна
Engineering: dropper jacquard mechanism (котонной машины)Универсальный русско-английский словарь > приспособление для изготовления жаккардового ажурного полотна
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10 Lace Stitches
Lace of open stitches may be produced by meshing two or more adjoining loops in the course to a single loop in the next course. The holes thus formed may be arranged in regular sequence to form designs. Designs may be plotted on squared paper, a X representing the hole. Floral designs may be made by the aid of jacquard mechanism. -
11 Levers (Leavers), John
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. 1812–21 Englandd. after 1821 Rouen, France[br]English improver of lace-making machines that formed the basis for many later developments.[br]John Heathcote had shown that it was possible to make lace by machine with his patents of 1808 and 1809. His machines were developed and improved by John Levers. Levers was originally a hosiery frame-smith and setter-up at Sutton-in-Ashfield but moved to Nottingham, where he extended his operations to the construction of point-net and warp-lace machinery. In the years 1812 and 1813 he more or less isolated himself in the garret of a house in Derby Road, where he assembled his lacemaking machine by himself. He was helped by two brothers and a nephew who made parts, but they saw it only when it was completed. Financial help for making production machines came from the firm of John Stevenson \& Skipwith, lace manufacturers in Nottingham. Levers never sought a patent, as he was under the mistaken impression that additions or improvements to an existing patented machine could not be protected. An early example of the machine survives at the Castle Museum in Nottingham. Although his prospects must have seemed good, for some reason Levers dissolved his partnership with Stevenson \& Co. and continued to work on improving his machine. In 1817 he altered it from the horizontal to the upright position, building many of the machines each year. He was a friendly, kind-hearted man, but he seems to have been unable to apply himself to his business, preferring the company of musicians—he was a bandmaster of the local militia—and was soon frequently without money, even to buy food for his family. He emigrated in 1821 to Rouen, France, where he set up his lace machines and where he subsequently died; when or in what circumstances is unknown. His machine continued to be improved and was adapted to work with the Jacquard mechanism to select the pattern.[br]Further ReadingW.Felkin, 1967, History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures, reprint, Newton Abbot (orig. pub. 1867) (the main account of the Levers machine).W.English, 1969, The Textile Industry, London (a brief account of the Levers lace machine).D.M.Smith, 1965, Industrial Archaeology of the East Midlands, Dawlish (includes an illustration of Levers's machine).RLH -
12 Madras Muslin
The loom mechanism is entirely different from that used for leno brocade work in which the ordinary doup is used and all the warp is drawn through the mail eyes of the jacquard. For Madras muslins the jacquard is different as doup harness and slackener harness must be provided. Qualities vary from 36 to 50 ends and 27 to 36 picks per inch, of 60's to 80's warp and 40's to 80's weft. The coloured warp yarns are 50's, 2/70's or 2/100's. The figuring weft ranges from 8's to 16's, 2/16's to 2/32's and rayon weft from 500 denier to 150 denier. The cloth is an open gauze ground cloth and extra weft figures are woven on this base. The extra weft appears only where figure is required and the floating yarn between one figure and the next is cut off after weaving. -
13 Curtain Cloth
The loom mechanism is entirely different from that used for leno brocade work in which the ordinary doup is used and all the warp is drawn through the mail eyes of the jacquard. For Madras muslins the jacquard is different as doup harness and slackener harness must be provided. Qualities vary from 36 to 50 ends and 27 to 36 picks per inch, of 60's to 80's warp and 40's to 80's weft. The coloured warp yarns are 50's, 2/70's or 2/100's. The figuring weft ranges from 8's to 16's, 2/16's to 2/32's and rayon weft from 500 denier to 150 denier. The cloth is an open gauze ground cloth and extra weft figures are woven on this base. The extra weft appears only where figure is required and the floating yarn between one figure and the next is cut off after weaving. -
14 Schaftmaschine
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15 Float
There is also the float that is not required and which is a most objectionable fault in any cloth. It is often caused by careless weaving, although inferior yarn is very liable to produce this fault. End breakages, incorrect shedding, faulty action of the shedding mechanism, wrongly pegged dobby lags, wrongly cut jacquard cards, etc., are prolific causes of floats. ———————— Warp or weft threads which pass over the threads of the opposite series are said to be floated, and in twill, satin crepe and other weaves the length of the float is named in terms of the number of threads the floating thread passes over between two intersections. In very many cloths the sole means of figuring is the floating of the warp or weft according to a defined and prearranged plan. -
16 Diggle, Squire
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c.1845 England[br]English inventor of a mechanized drop box for shuttles on power looms.[br]Robert Kay improved his father John's flying shuttle by inventing the drop box, in which up to four shuttles could be stored one below the other. The weaver's left hand controlled levers and catches to raise or lower the drop box in order to bring the appropriate shuttle into line with the shuttle race on the slay. The shuttle could then be driven across the loom, leaving its particular type or colour of weft. On the earliest power looms of Edmund Cartwright in 1785, and for many years later, it was possible to use only one shuttle. In 1845 Squire Diggle of Bury, Lancashire, took out a patent for mechanizing the drop box so that different types or colours of weft could be woven without the weaver attending to the shuttles. He used an endless chain on which plates of different heights could be fixed to raise the boxes to the required height; later this would be operated by either the dobby or Jacquard pattern-selecting mechanisms. He took out further patents for improvements to looms. One, in 1854, was for taking up the cloth with a positive motion. Two more, in 1858, improved his drop box mechanism: the first was for actually operating the drop box, while the second was for tappet chains which operated the timing for raising the boxes.[br]Bibliography1845, British patent no. 10,462 (mechanized drop box). 1854, British patent no. 1,100 (positive uptake of cloth) 1858, British patent no. 2,297 (improved drop-box operation). 1858, British patent no. 2,704 (tappet chains).Further ReadingA.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London (provides drawings of Diggle's invention).C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History of Technology, Vol. IV, Oxford: Clarendon Press.See also: Kay, JohnRLH
См. также в других словарях:
Jacquard loom — a loom for producing elaborate designs in an intricate weave (Jacquard weave) constructed from a variety of basic weaves. [1850 55; named after J. M. Jacquard (1757 1834), French inventor] * * * Loom incorporating a special device to control… … Universalium
Jacquard weaving — makes possible in almost any loom the programmed raising of each warp thread independently of the others. This brings much greater versatility to the weaving process, and offers the highest level of warp yarn control. This mechanism is probably… … Wikipedia
Jacquard — Jac*quard , a. Pertaining to, or invented by, Jacquard, a French mechanician, who died in 1834. [1913 Webster] {Jacquard apparatus} or {Jacquard arrangement}, a device applied to looms for weaving figured goods, consisting of mechanism controlled … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Jacquard apparatus — Jacquard Jac*quard , a. Pertaining to, or invented by, Jacquard, a French mechanician, who died in 1834. [1913 Webster] {Jacquard apparatus} or {Jacquard arrangement}, a device applied to looms for weaving figured goods, consisting of mechanism… … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Jacquard arrangement — Jacquard Jac*quard , a. Pertaining to, or invented by, Jacquard, a French mechanician, who died in 1834. [1913 Webster] {Jacquard apparatus} or {Jacquard arrangement}, a device applied to looms for weaving figured goods, consisting of mechanism… … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Jacquard card — Jacquard Jac*quard , a. Pertaining to, or invented by, Jacquard, a French mechanician, who died in 1834. [1913 Webster] {Jacquard apparatus} or {Jacquard arrangement}, a device applied to looms for weaving figured goods, consisting of mechanism… … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Jacquard loom — Jacquard Jac*quard , a. Pertaining to, or invented by, Jacquard, a French mechanician, who died in 1834. [1913 Webster] {Jacquard apparatus} or {Jacquard arrangement}, a device applied to looms for weaving figured goods, consisting of mechanism… … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Jacquard — [jak′ärd, jə kärd′] n. [after J. M. Jacquard (1752 1834), Fr inventor] 1. a) a loom with an endless belt of cards punched with holes arranged to produce a figured weave: also Jacquard loom b) the distinctive mechanism of this loom 2. a) the weave … English World dictionary
jacquard — noun Usage: often capitalized, often attributive Etymology: Joseph Jacquard Date: 1890 1. a. the control mechanism of a Jacquard loom b. Jacquard loom 2. a fabric of intricate variegated weave or pattern … New Collegiate Dictionary
Jacquard loom — noun Date: 1851 a loom designed to weave fabrics of intricate design whose control mechanism makes use of cards with holes punched in them … New Collegiate Dictionary
Joseph Marie Jacquard — Infobox Person name = PAGENAME image size = 150px caption = PAGENAME birth name = 7 July 1752 birth date = Lyon birth place = 7 August 1834 death date = death place = death cause = resting place = resting place coordinates = residence =… … Wikipedia
